Monday, February 25, 2013

Harvest Monday–25 Feb 2012

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The garden is under a foot or more of snow with a few inches more on Sunday, so anything from the garden is coming out of the basement or the freezer. Last week I used the next to last red onion from the garden to make Rouladen, a German dish similar to “birds”. The supermarket had some thin sliced sirloin steak featured, which prompted the idea of serving this. The beef was sliced into strips and pounded to make it thinner.

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A slice of bacon was laid on each strip, the strip slathered with Dijon mustard, and then sprinkled with the chopped red onion from the garden and sweet gherkin pickles.

 

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The strips were then rolled up and fastened with toothpicks. The Rouladen were browned on all sides and then braised in some beef stock and red wine for about an hour. The juices make a great gravy, rich with mustard, onion and bacon

This Sunday we had roast chicken. I used one of my two remaining  Meyer lemons to flavor it. The lemon zest was blended with butter and dried basil from the garden and inserted under the skin of the breast and the juice dribbled over the chicken. The chicken was then roasted for an hour with mini carrots and asparagus from the store. Spring asparagus is starting to arrive so we enjoy it while it is available. My daughter wanted to make a pumpkin cheesecake, but unfortunately the pureed pumpkin that was defrosted last week to make waffles was moldy, so we resorted to canned pumpkin, which has a totally different and stronger flavor from fresh puree.

To see what gardeners around the world are harvesting from their gardens or freezers, head over to Daphne’s Dandelions, our host for Harvest Monday.

Sunday, February 24, 2013

Garden Planting Schedule 2013

I finally have completed my 2013 planting schedule sufficiently to post on Google Drive and share. It is a modification of my spreadsheet from last year. I deleted the column for seed source because that information is in the Planting List.  Since I am using Square Foot Gardening, I have added two columns for number of squares allotted to the vegetable, and either seeds/plants per square or the number of plants I need to start indoors. Note that the file will be changing as I tweak the schedule.  I print off a copy of this spreadsheet and take it to the garden with me, along with the plot plan. The biggest hurdle remaining is completing the plot plan and figuring out where to allocate all of these vegetables I hope to plant.

 

One of the challenges I have is figuring out what to do with the new and uncommon plants I am trying. I am going to treat fava beans just like peas and plant them in late March. Kohlrabi will be started and transplanted on the same dates as other cabbage family plants like kale and collards. I also figured an August planting date for fall harvest of Kohlrabi. Then there are the Asian greens like Tatsoi, Fun Jen, and Hon Tsai Tai. Most of these can be grown in early spring and late summer/fall, but I have no experience with them.

 

We are having a snowy but not awful Sunday, perfect for thinking about gardening. I finally got my Copra and Rossa Lunga di Tropea onion seeds planted in pots today and nestled on the heat mat. I outsmarted myself flipping particular seed varieties back and forth between my Fedco and Pinetree orders and succeeded in not ordering the Red Wing onion seeds I need to plant today while double ordering the fava beans. Oh well, I ordered a packet from Pinetree and will just have to wait for them to arrive. I hope I like fava beans.

 

I decided to try seed blocks for seed starting this year and ordered 3/4”, 1.5” and 2” soil block makers. I also ordered a 20 quart bag of Johnny’s 512 mix, which cost me $12 plus $6 dollars for shipping. A $20 box of dirt! But I wanted to see what the real thing was like before I try mixing my own. Some use the Vermont Composting’s Fort Vee Mix, which is carried by a local hydroponic supplier, so I may also try that when my supply of 512 runs out. I also used the 512 for the onion seeds since it has compost and some fertilizer and the onions will be in the pot for a long time.

Sunday, February 10, 2013

Planting List 2013

2013-Seeds

My seed orders are placed and most are in hand except Fedco, which was a group order and I must wait for that order to arrive and be distributed. Now to figure out where to put everything in the garden and plan the seed starting schedule. My planning tends to be impulse driven. More ooh that’s cool, where can I put it and less here’s an empty spot, what should I plant. I admit I’m a sucker for the seed catalogs with color photos.

 

The garden will be similar to last year, with a lot of the old reliable varieties and a few new ones. New vegetables I am trying include kohlrabi, carrots and broad beans. I am also planting an expanded variety of Asian greens, going beyond Choi to include Tatsoi, Fun Jen, and Hon Tsai Tai. Hopefully I can do some fall plantings of these so I get some greens into cold weather. I have not bothered growing carrots because they are so cheap, even “organic” ones. The trick was to find short carrots that will row in 5-6 inch deep raised bed without resorting to height extenders.

 

I had a miserable season last year with eggplant and peppers. This year I will try a couple of Ping Tung eggplants under cover in hopes I get a few. My unscientific observation the last couple of years is that the oriental types of eggplants seem to be less susceptible to flea beetle damage. For peppers, I have given up any hope of growing bell peppers and will stick to small peppers this year. I’m trying Padron, which Michelle grows with success, and a few other small fruited peppers like Jimmy Nardello. Hope I get some. I think I harvested three Jalapenos from two plants last year.

 

This year I will be growing four types of onions and starting my own onion plants from seed for the first time. Last year I purchased a 4” pot of red onion plants from a local nursery and tucked them in here and there. I was pleased that I got nice, large onions from these plants and still have a few in the basement. So now I am going to try growing my own from seed. The little I know so far is that right now is the time to start them, since they grow very slowly. I plan to start them in some kind of flat and will use the Johnny’s 512 mix I got for seed blocking since it has compost and fertilizer added.

 

Here is the 2013 planting list, hopefully complete and accurate (but always subject to change):

 

•    Basil Genovese, Siam Queen, Spicy Globe (purchased plants)
•    Bean Bush Provider (PT)
•    Bean Bush Jade (PT)
•    Bean Pole Fortex
•    Bean Pole Trionfo Violetto (PT)
•    Bean Broad/Fava, Windsor (PT)
•    Beet Touchstone (F)
•    Beet Red Ace (PT)
•    Beet Boro (HM)
•    Broccoli Di Cicco
•    Broccoli Purple Peacock (F)
•    Brussels Sprouts (purchased plants)
•    Carrot Shin Kuroda (F)
•    Carrot Mokum (F)
•    Carrot Caracas (J)
•    Cilantro Large Leaf (PT)
•    Collards Champion (HM)
•    Cucumber Summer Dance (PT)
•    Cucumber Pickling Jackson Classic
•    Cucumber Green Finger (HM)
•    Cucumber Crystal Apple (PT)
•    Dill Fernleaf
•    Eggplant Ping
Tung (PT)
•    Endive Dubuisson (J)
•    Escarole Natacha (J)
•    Garlic German Extra Hardy (GM) –planted 10/2012
•    Garlic Chesnok Red (GM) –planted 10/2012
•    Greens Pac Choi Win-Win (J)
•    Greens Fun Jen (F)
•    Greens Hon Tsai Tai (HM)
•    Greens Tatsoi (F)
•    Kale Beedy’s Camden (F)
•    Kohlrabi Kolibri (PT)
•    Lettuce Green Ice (PT)
•    Lettuce New Red Fire (PT)
•    Lettuce Buttercrunch (PT)
•    Lettuce Forellenschluss (F)
•    Mustard Green Wave (PT)
•    Mustard Red Giant (F)
•    Onion Copra (PT)
•    Onion Red Wing (PT)
•    Onion Rossa Lunga di Tropea (F)
•    Onion Evergreen Hardy White (F)
•    Onion French Red Shallots (SESE) –planted 10/2012
•    Parsley Italian Flat Leaf (purchased plants)
•    Pea Snap Sugar Ann
•    Pea Snow Oregon Sugar Pod II
•    Pepper Padron (BC)
•    Pepper Jimmy Nardello (F)
•    Pepper Tiburon Ancho (F)
•    Pepper Red Cherry (PT)
•    Pepper Lipstick BC)
•    Pepper Jalapeno (purchased plants)
•    Pepper Thai (purchased plant)
•    Radish White Icicle Short Top (J)
•    Radish Watermelon (PT)
•    Radish, French Breakfast
•    Rosemary (purchased plant)
•    Spinach Tyee (PT)
•    Squash Zucchini Dunja
•    Squash Zucchini Costata Romanesco
•    Squash Pattypan Sunburst
•    Squash Summer Tromboncino (F)
•    Swiss Chard Orange Fantasia (PT)
•    Swiss Chard Flamingo (BC)
•    Turnip White Tokyo Cross (PT)
•    Turnip Yellow Golden Ball (F)
•    Tomato cherry Sun Gold I (purchase plants)
•    Tomato cherry Black Cherry I (PT)
•    Tomato Roma Gilbertie Paste I (HM)
•    Tomato Juliet (purchased grafted and un-grafted plants)
•    Tomato Roma Striped Roman I (BC)
•    Tomato, Cherokee Purple I (purchased grafted plant)
•    Tomato, Big Beef (purchased plants)

 

BC=Baker Creek, F=Fedco, GM=Green Mountain Garlic, HM=High Mowing Seeds, J=Johnny’s, PT=Pinetree, SESE=Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

Saturday, February 9, 2013

Nemo 2013

Winter storms in New England are a common occurrence. When you hear a storm has been given a name, that gets your attention. Winter storm Lulu (was it Lula?) turned out to be just a nuisance. But Nemo was something else! The state has been shutdown for two days now. Two to three feet of snow fell and the coastal areas were damaged by high seas and hurricane force winds. Fortunately, here in Bolton we only got about 20 inches of snow and winds were minimal. We still have power and life goes on, while folks along the coast are struggling with flooding and power outages. My family is warm, we have power, and I am planning my 2013 garden while I think of those still struggling with the weather gremlins.

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20-inches

Monday, January 14, 2013

Harvest Monday–Lemon Meringue Pie

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Hard to believe I would have anything to report in January, but I do. My Meyer Lemon tree, safely indoors in a SE facing window, has ripened the last of its fruit. These lemons are destined to be made into a lemon meringue pie. I have my mother’s recipe, saved by my sister, below. This will be a little taste of summer for the family to enjoy in January.

Lemon Meringue Pie

My mother’s recipe, and one of my favorites, sent to me by my sister, Sharon.


Filling

 

Ingredients

1 ½ c. sugar
3 Tbsp. corn starch
3 Tbsp. flour
1 ½ c. hot water
Pinch of salt
3 egg yolks, slightly beaten
2 Tbsp. butter
½ tsp. lemon zest
1/3 cup lemon juice
1 9 inch baked pie shell
1 recipe meringue (below)
 

Instructions
1.    In saucepan, combine sugar with corn starch and flour; then stir in hot water gradually. Bring to boil stirring constantly to make a smooth mixture.
2.    Add salt and continue cooking for 8 minutes, stirring occasionally until thick.
3.    Slowly stir a small amount of the hot mixture into egg yolks, stirring constantly. Return to pan and cook 4 minutes longer. Add butter and lemon zest; stir until melted. Slowly add in lemon juice. Cool the mixture.
4.    Pour into pastry shell. Cover with meringue, and bake in 325ยบ F. oven until delicately browned, about 12-15 minutes.

Meringue

 

Ingredients
3 egg whites
6 Tbsp. sugar
1 tsp. lemon juice

 

Instructions
Beat egg whites and lemon juice until stiff. Add sugar gradually (1 Tbsp. at a time), beating constantly until soft peaks form. Pile lightly on pie filling, sealing meringue to edges of pie crust.

 

Saturday, January 5, 2013

Grafted Tomato plants in your future?

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The new 2013 seed catalogs have been arriving and I noticed, for the first time, that some catalogs are offering grafted tomato plants this year. Well, it turns out they have been available to home gardeners in the US for several years now, while they have been extensively used in Europe and Japan, and in US greenhouse agriculture, for years. The concept of grafting is a very old horticultural practice. Roses and fruit trees (members of the Rose family) are routinely grafted onto rootstock because they do not run true from seed. And of course, we all know the European wine industry was saved when an entomologist in Missouri developed a method of grafting Vitis vinifera scions onto phylloxera-resistant American root stock.

 

What is new to me is the concept of grafting non-woody annuals like tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and eggplants. What advantage can be obtained? Grafted tomato plants in the catalogs are priced $8-10 each, so what would make that price worth the benefits? Japan was one of the early adopters of grafted plants, a country where space is at a premium. Then Europe. In the US, greenhouse growers are the economic driver behind grafted plants and the economics are simple. Greenhouses are a large capital investment and have a finite capacity for plants. If the productivity of a given plant could be improved for whatever reasons (vigorousness, soil disease resistance, etc.), say 40-50%, that would be a huge payback for the additional cost of grafted plants. Even for field-grown tomatoes, a significant yield per acre is money in the bank.

 

Do grafted plants have any benefits for the average home gardener? I think that remains to be seen, but the potential is intriguing. A number of benefits are claimed for grafted plants. Among them are increased vigor, extended harvest and disease resistance. Suppose you take a vigorous, disease tolerant rootstock and graft it with a desirable heirloom tomato such as Brandywine. If the grafted plant can produce even 50% more fruit for the one spot I can devote to a Brandywine plant, it would be worth it to me.

Here are some of the claimed benefits of grafting:

  • More vigorous rootstock that can pump more nutrients into the grafted scion. There are claims that the root mass of the rootstock may be 4-5 times larger than usual. The rootstock is capable of delivering far more nutrients to the scion, yielding more and larger fruit, thus increasing productivity. There is of course an art to pairing rootstock  to scion. Too much vigor and you may overwhelm the scion and  just get rampant vegetative growth. My concern comes from growing in raised beds, where I have constrained volume for each plant, both root mass and foliage. The growers recommend pruning to two leaders to spread the vigor, which was my practice for in-ground plants trained up a pole. In raised beds, I prune to a single leader trained up a trellis cord. At the end of this season I pulled tomato plants with large root systems that consumed their own square plus most of the adjacent square. Do I really want a plant with 4-5 times the root system?
  • Improved disease resistance, primarily from soil-borne diseases. The root stock varieties are selected for their resistance to some soil-borne diseases and nematodes. For example, Estamino, an organic rootstock bred by Enza Zaden in the Netherlands is grown by King Seeds in the US and retailed by Johnny’s and High Mowing Seeds. Estamino has strong resistance to Verticillium and Fusarium wilts, tomato mosaic virus and leaf mold. It has intermediate resistance to root knot nematodes and tomato spotted wilt virus. The airborne diseases like late and early blight aren’t mentioned, but I have seen blight resistant varieties like Defiant grafted onto rootstock, giving you the best of both. Unfortunately, Defiant is a determinate variety not suited to trellis training. Still, the soil disease resistance is a definite plus for situations like hoop houses, greenhouses and raised beds where there is limited to no opportunity to practice crop rotation. Graft an heirloom with no disease resistance onto rootstock and you get the disease resistance of an hybrid.

    Extended production of fruit. The combination of disease resistance with a vigorous rootstock means that plants will keep growing and producing fruit. For a greenhouse with a controlled environment, that is an obvious advantage. If it proves true in the home garden, that would also be a plus. My tomatoes tend to tire out in late summer. This year they only got about 4 feet up a 6 foot trellis. I am no disease expert but I suspect diseases may play a role in this. Usually I am hoping the couple of fruits still on the vine will mature before cold weather. I think that instead, wondering what to do with the bushels of green tomatoes still on the vine would be a pleasant problem to have.

     

    \If you want to see how grafting is done (and why retail grafted plants are expensive), there is a great video produced by the University of Vermont here. And just a WARNING: While grafting is not GMO, it is a high-tech process used in agribusiness and Monsanto is heavily involved. The Dutch company De  Ruiter, a Monsanto company, is the source of seed for the Maxifort, Multifort and Beaufort rootstock which are widely used. Seminis has its own rootstock, Cheong Gang. Johnny’s and others do offer rootstock seed not produced by Monsanto but retail growers don’t always volunteer what rootstock they are using. It looks like Log Cabin Plants sold by Territorial in 2011 used Emperador rootstock from Syngenta in the Netherlands, a non-Monsanto product. For 2013, they are using a rootstock branded “SuperNaturals” and it isn’t clear if this is Emperador re-branded or a new rootstock. If you are concerned about avoiding Monsanto products, you should probably ask what rootstock is used.

     

    I am definitely intrigued by the concept of grafting tomatoes and will probably try a few plants in 2013. Right now I would have to mail order plants, since I haven’t seen grafted plants at any of the garden centers around here in New England (although Home Depot has trialed selling the Mighty ‘Mato grafted plants, but only online). In the US (outside of the greenhouse industry), most home garden activity seems to have started in the Pacific Northwest, with Log Cabin Plants and retailers like Territorial Seeds. Log Cabin in conjunction with Garden Life developed the Might ‘Mato brand and they seem to be the major grower/promoter for now. Retailers like Home Depot, Territorial, Jung, Totally Tomatoes (and allied Vermont Bean Seed), White Flower Farms, and others are reselling selected Mighty ‘Mato plants. The widest selection seems to be offered by Garden Life itself. Plants will also be available from some garden centers (primarily in western US but hopefully in the NE as well). Expect to pay an average of $8 per plant plus shipping (and usually a 3-plant minimum order). And you probably should order early if you are serious because production is limited.

     

    So, do you have any plans to plant grafted tomatoes in 2013? Have you done so before/? I am thinking of trying a grafted Cherokee Purple, because I am such a fan of it and last year was disappointing. Garden Life also offer Paul Robeson, a Russian heirloom that is supposed to be great tasting and early. Then what about Juliet? It is already vigorous and productive, but if I could get 50-100% more fruit from one vine, I only need to plant one of them. I am not ready to try eggplant or pepper yet. I doubt an 8 US$ eggplant is going to be any less susceptible to flea beetle attacks than my 50 cent transplants.

  • Sunday, December 30, 2012

    Garden Post-Mortem–Tomatoes

    My raised bed garden was completed in the Spring by the addition of two 4x6 foot raised beds made from 1x8 inch red cedar boards. The 8 inch boards would give me a little more depth for plants like tomatoes while not busting the bank (Mel’s Mix is expensive). I added trellises along the long edges of the two beds and the short end of one, giving me room for 14 tomato plants.I planted indeterminate varieties and each plant was pruned to a single stem and trained up a cord on the trellis.

    The trellis method worked very well. The one variety that gave me a little trouble at first was Pineapple, which had a number of closely spaced growing tips rather than a single dominant tip, almost like a determinate. As the plant got a little bigger, the issue resolved itself. Wrapping the single leader around the cord worked very well and, even with fruit on the vine, I had no slippage.

    Juliet-fruit

    All of the tomatoes showed vigorous growth early in the season. Vines got to about a meter in height by mid-season. Then most of them stopped growing. I’m not sure if this was a fertilizer problem, or the very hot weather or the fact that disease was starting to appear. The only tomatoes that continued to flower and produce were the cherry types. A few plants started showing signs of late blight, so I started spraying with a copper fungicide with little obvious benefit.

    My selection of varieties in 2012 was different from the usual, mostly heirlooms this year. In the past I have planted about half the available space with a main crop hybrid such as Jet Star, another quarter with a paste tomato such as Roma. The remaining space was used for a cherry and some  heirlooms. So if I got a few slicers from the heirlooms, that was a treat. I still had my main crop varieties to put a lot of tomatoes on my countertop. This year I got my 2-3 fruits per heirloom but had no disease resistant main crop tomatoes, so the countertops were bare.

     

    Cherry/Salad Tomatoes

    These types of tomatoes did the best last year and it should not be surprising to me that two of them are hybrids. I planted Sungold again because it is a terrific tomato. Very productive and very tasty. Both plants this year did very well while still showing some signs of early blight. Sungold is F1 and has resistance to Fusarium wilt and tobacco mosaic virus but not to the blights. Still, I will plant it again next year.

    The Black Cherry I planted did very well despite showing some sign of late blight. It is not a hybrid, rather  it is open pollinated and was bred in Florida by the late Vincent Sapp. The vine was very vigorous, growing tall and setting large clusters of fruit. The tomatoes were mostly split-resistant and very meaty with great flavor. I’m definitely growing this one again. I also tried a Matt’s Wild Cherry, a wild variety found growing in Mexico, but did not care for it. Fruits were tiny if prolific, and the flavor was not very good, although it was disease resistant. Oh well, I tried it.

    Finally, I grew a couple Juliet, an F1 variety my garden neighbor grows every year because her husband loves them. The plants were very robust and prolific, producing right up to cold weather. Johnny’s says they have some late and early blight resistance, which must be true because they stayed healthy all season. Unfortunately, the skins are tough and the flavor is bland unless they are fully ripened. Later in the summer taste did improve, but even so Juliet tomato is not a tomato I would crave for its flavor. I may plant it again just for its vigor and disease resistance and maybe try drying the fruits, which may concentrate the flavor.

     

    Paste Tomato

    The only paste tomato I planted was Striped Roman I grew from seeds bought from Baker Creek. I have complained before about my seed starting problems, but I wanted to try these so I selected the best two transplants and planted them. They grew slowly and I got a couple of tomatoes from each plant. I may try these again next year and hopefully do a better job starting them so I have good sized transplants to start with.

     

    Heirloom Tomatoes

    This year I planted Black Krim, Cherokee Purple, Big Rainbow, and Pineapple, all purchased plants. I had delusions of Black Krim being my “main” tomato and planted two of them. They did poorly, succumbing to disease early. The few tomatoes they produced split badly, so I only got to try a few which were not very good. People rave about Black Krim so I’m sure it’s a great tomato, just not this year in my garden. To add insult to injury, I gave away a couple plants to fellow gardeners who planted them in soil. Those thrived and produced a lot of tomatoes, most of which these fellow “gardeners” let drop on the ground and rot.

    The three other heirlooms I planted grew well early in the season and set fruit, but then slowed down. I wonder if I didn’t fertilize them enough or if it was the hot weather. The Cherokee Purple did show signs of late blight very early (and it was a Bonnie Plant, since I couldn’t find a locally grown plant). The first fruit was badly cat-faced and the others cracked badly. But I really like Cherokee Purple and will plant it again for the few slicers I do get. Big Rainbow and Pineapple were great tasting tomatoes, just wish I got a few more.

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